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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.